Are you tired of struggling to find the right handholds or holds when attempting dynos? Well, look no further! In this article, we will uncover the secrets behind finding the perfect handholds and holds specifically designed for dynos. Whether you’re a seasoned climber looking to improve your dyno game or a beginner eager to learn new techniques, get ready to discover the key to successful dynos. So, grab your chalk bag, tighten your climbing shoes, and let’s explore the world of dyno handholds and holds together.
Overview of Dynos
Definition of dynos
Dynos, short for dynamic moves, are climbing techniques that involve jumping or leaping from one hold to another, rather than relying solely on static movements. These high-energy moves require explosive power and precise coordination to successfully reach the next handhold. Dynos add an exciting and dynamic element to climbing and are often incorporated into boulder problems and sport climbing routes.
Importance of handholds and holds
Handholds and holds are essential in dynos as they provide the support and grip necessary to launch yourself off one hold and reach for the next. The type and quality of handholds significantly influence the success and difficulty of a dyno. Climbers must carefully evaluate and select appropriate handholds based on factors such as their size, shape, and texture to ensure a secure grip during the dynamic movement.
Types of dynos
There are several types of dynos that climbers can encounter, each with its own unique characteristics and challenges. Some common types of dynos include jump dynos, where climbers must leap vertically between holds; lateral dynos, which involve jumping horizontally between holds; and double dynos, where both hands simultaneously leave the holds to reach for new ones. Each type of dyno presents its own set of challenges, requiring climbers to adapt their technique and handhold selection accordingly.
Basic Handholds for Dynos
Crimps
Crimps are small, narrow holds that require the climber to grip tightly with the fingertips. They typically have sharp edges and minimal surface area, making them challenging to hold onto for an extended period. Crimps are popular handholds for dynos as they provide a secure grip and allow climbers to generate maximum power and control during the explosive movement.
Pinches
Pinches are holds where the climber must pinch the hold between their fingers and thumb, similar to squeezing a tube of toothpaste. These holds require both strength and balance to maintain a secure grip. In dynos, pinches are often used as intermediate holds, providing a stable grip for the climber to transition between larger handholds.
Jugs
Jugs are large, comfortable handholds that offer excellent grip and allow climbers to grasp them with their entire hand. These holds are typically rounded or incut, making them easy to hold onto. While jugs are not commonly used as the primary handhold for dynos, they often appear as finishing holds, providing a secure grip for the climber to stabilize themselves after a dynamic movement.
Specialized Handholds for Dynos
Slopers
Slopers are smooth, rounded holds with minimal positive features. They require climbers to rely on friction and body positioning rather than relying on the shape of the hold itself. Slopers are often challenging to grip, as they lack prominent edges or features. In dynos, slopers can present a unique challenge, as climbers must find creative ways to generate enough grip and friction to launch themselves off.
Gaston holds
Gaston holds are unique handholds where the climber places their hand with their thumb facing downward and their palm pressing sideways against the surface of the hold. This hand position creates a forceful pulling action and requires significant upper body strength. Gaston holds can be used in dynos to provide stability and control during explosive movements.
Underclings
Underclings are holds where the climber’s hand is positioned underneath the hold, often with their palm facing upwards. These holds require climbers to engage their shoulder and back muscles to maintain a strong grip. In dynos, underclings can be used as both starting and intermediate holds, adding an additional layer of difficulty to the dynamic movement.
Sidepulls
Sidepulls are handholds where climbers must exert force by pulling horizontally on the hold. These holds often require climbers to engage their core and utilize body tension to maintain balance. In dynos, sidepulls can serve as intermediate or finishing holds, allowing climbers to generate lateral momentum and propel themselves towards the next hold.
Techniques for Dynos
Identifying potential holds
Before attempting a dyno, it’s crucial to identify potential handholds that can be used effectively. Look for holds that are within your reach and offer a secure grip. Consider the size, shape, and orientation of the holds, as well as their distance from each other. Identifying suitable handholds allows you to plan your movement and execute the dyno more efficiently.
Assessing the handhold strength
Once you’ve identified potential handholds, it’s important to assess their strength and stability. Check for loose or deteriorating holds that could pose a safety risk. Evaluate the texture and condition of the holds to ensure a secure grip during the dynamic movement. When in doubt, consult with fellow climbers or route setters to verify the integrity of the handholds.
Choosing appropriate handholds
The selection of appropriate handholds is crucial for a successful dyno. Consider factors such as the distance and angle between holds, your reach, and your comfort level with different types of holds. Opt for handholds that provide a secure grip and allow you to generate the necessary power and momentum. Experiment with different handholds and techniques to find what works best for your body and climbing style.
Training for Successful Dynos
Finger strength exercises
Developing finger strength is essential for executing powerful dynos. Incorporate finger-specific exercises into your training routine to improve your grip strength and endurance. Fingerboard exercises, campus board training, and finger-strengthening exercises using grip trainers or resistance bands are all effective ways to enhance your finger strength.
Power training
Power training focuses on explosive movements and the ability to generate maximum force in a short amount of time. Plyometric exercises, such as box jumps and medicine ball throws, can help improve your explosiveness and power output. Additionally, incorporating exercises that target the lower body, core, and upper body strength will contribute to overall power and agility necessary for successful dynos.
Dynamic movement drills
Practicing specific dynamic movement drills can enhance your coordination, timing, and body control during dynos. Incorporate exercises such as jumping between holds on a bouldering wall, performing controlled dynos on specific routes, and utilizing specialized training equipment like a dyno board. Consistent practice of these drills will improve your ability to execute precise and powerful dynos.
Safety Considerations for Dynos
Proper spotting techniques
When attempting dynos, especially on highball boulders or while lead climbing, it is essential to have an experienced spotter. A spotter can provide support and help cushion a fall, minimizing the risk of injury. Communicate with your spotter beforehand to establish clear signals and ensure they are positioned correctly to respond quickly in case of a fall.
Inspecting and maintaining handholds
Regular inspection and maintenance of handholds are crucial for ensuring their safety and longevity. Routinely check for loose or damaged holds, and report any concerns to the climbing gym or route setters. Additionally, clean holds regularly to remove chalk build-up and improve grip. Taking responsibility for the integrity of the handholds contributes to a safe and enjoyable climbing experience.
Protective gear
Wearing appropriate protective gear, such as a helmet, can provide added safety during dynos. While not typically required during indoor climbing, wearing a helmet can protect against head injuries in the event of a fall. When climbing outdoors, especially on highball boulders, using crash pads can help absorb impact and reduce the risk of serious injury.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Using the wrong handhold
One common mistake in dynos is selecting the wrong handhold. It’s essential to carefully evaluate the size, shape, and orientation of potential handholds and choose ones that provide a secure grip and allow for efficient movement. Failing to select appropriate handholds can result in decreased power, failed attempts, and potential falls.
Neglecting foot placements
While handholds are crucial in dynos, foot placements are equally important for generating power and maintaining balance. Neglecting to carefully position your feet can hinder your ability to generate sufficient momentum during the dyno. Focus on engaging your core and utilizing precise foot placements to maximize your power and efficiency.
Over-dependence on one handhold
Relying too heavily on a single handhold during a dyno can lead to instability and the potential for a failed attempt. Remember to distribute your weight evenly and utilize both hands during the movement. Developing body awareness and coordination will allow you to maintain control and execute the dyno successfully.
Advanced Dyno Techniques
Jumping vs. controlled propulsion
While dynos often involve jumping or leaping with explosive power, there are instances where controlled propulsion may be more effective. Controlled propulsion refers to using deliberate and controlled movements to generate momentum, rather than relying solely on jumping. Mastering both jumping and controlled propulsion techniques will provide you with a broader range of options for executing dynos.
Utilizing momentum
Understanding how to utilize momentum is critical for advanced dyno techniques. Instead of relying solely on your physical strength, learn to harness the energy from your body’s movements. Use the transfer of weight and well-timed releases to propel yourself during the dyno. By understanding the principles of momentum, you can conserve energy and execute more efficient dynos.
Dynamic footwork
Advanced dyno techniques often require precise and dynamic footwork to generate power and maintain balance. Focus on positioning your feet accurately and transitioning smoothly between holds. Practice using your toes to grip the holds and generate additional power during the dyno. Mastering dynamic footwork will improve your overall climbing abilities and open up new possibilities for dynos.
Popular Dyno Routes
Classic dyno challenges
Certain routes have gained popularity for their unique and challenging dyno sequences. These classic dyno challenges often require climbers to execute powerful and precise movements between holds. Examples of classic dyno routes include “Flying Circus” in Hueco Tanks, Texas, and “Ambrosia” in The Buttermilks, California. These routes provide an exhilarating test of dyno skills and are often sought after by climbers looking for a dynamic challenge.
Championship dyno problems
In climbing competitions, dyno problems often feature prominently due to their exciting and crowd-pleasing nature. Championship dyno problems push climbers to their limits, requiring a combination of strength, coordination, and strategy. These problems are carefully designed to challenge climbers and showcase their dyno abilities. Competitions such as the IFSC World Cup and the X Games feature iconic dyno problems that capture the attention of climbers and spectators alike.
Competition Dyno Strategies
Identifying tricky holds
In climbing competitions, dyno problems often incorporate tricky holds that require climbers to adapt their techniques. Practice identifying different types of holds commonly used in competitions, such as slopers, pinches, and underclings. Understanding the nuances of these holds will allow you to strategize and adapt your dyno technique accordingly.
Analyzing dyno angles
Dyno problems in competitions often feature various angles and orientations, adding complexity to the movement. Analyze the angle and direction of the dyno carefully to determine the optimal body positioning and release point. Experiment with different angles and practice adapting your dyno technique to effectively navigate these challenges.
Minimizing time and energy
In a competition setting, efficiency is crucial. Practice minimizing the time and energy expended during dynos by refining your technique and movement. Focus on executing dynos with precision and economy of motion to maximize your chances of success within the time constraints of a competition. Additionally, maintaining good body positioning and control will help conserve energy for subsequent dyno attempts.
