Climbing holds come in various shapes and sizes, each serving a distinct purpose in the sport. However, when it comes to smearing, a technique used to generate friction on smooth surfaces, climbers often wonder if there are specific holds that excel in this particular skill. Smearing involves using the rubber soles of climbing shoes to create traction on slippery holds, giving climbers the leverage they need to ascend. In this article, we will explore the concept of smearing and whether there are specific climbing holds that are best suited for this technique. So, get ready to discover the secrets of smearing and enhance your climbing skills!
Types of Climbing Holds
Jugs
Jugs are large, comfortable holds that are easy to grip with your entire hand. These holds are perfect for beginners as they provide a solid grip and allow you to easily pull yourself up. They are often shaped like deep buckets or jugs, hence the name. Jugs can be found in various angles and sizes, making them versatile for different climbing routes.
Slopers
Slopers are holds with smooth, rounded surfaces that require a lot of friction between your hand and the hold to maintain a grip. These holds are challenging because they lack any positive edges or holds to grab onto. Slopers are often found on horizontal or slightly angled walls, and mastering the technique of smearing is essential when encountering slopers.
Edges
Edges are small, sharp holds that provide a positive grip and allow you to put weight on your fingertips. These holds come in various sizes and can be either positive or negative. Positive edges have a slight inward curve, making them easier to grip, while negative edges angle outward, requiring more finger strength. Edges are commonly used for technical climbing routes that require precise footwork and finger strength.
Pinches
Pinches are holds that require you to pinch the hold between your thumb and fingers. These holds can be either positive or negative, and the difficulty level depends on the angle and shape of the hold. Pinches can be found in different sizes, allowing for various levels of difficulty. Smearing on pinches requires careful foot placement and body positioning to maintain balance and keep your weight centered.
Pockets
Pockets are small holes or indentations in the rock that require you to dig your fingers into the hold. These holds can be shallow or deep, and they can range in size. Smearing on pockets often requires precise foot placement and technique, as your grip strength is crucial for maintaining balance and stability.
Crimps
Crimps are small, thin holds that require you to place the pads of your fingers on the edge of the hold. These holds can be positive or negative, and they require significant finger strength. Smearing on crimps can be challenging, as the surface area to support your body weight is minimal. Proper foot placement and body tension are vital when using crimps for smearing.
Gaston
Gaston holds require you to pull outward or sideways on the hold, rather than pulling straight down. These holds are shaped like edges, but they require a different hand position, with one hand facing palm up and the other palm down. Gastons can be found in various sizes and angles, and smearing on gaston holds requires precise footwork and body positioning to maintain balance and control.
Sidepulls
Sidepulls are holds that require you to pull sideways to maintain grip. These holds can be positive or negative and are usually shaped like edges or slopers. Smearing on sidepulls relies heavily on proper foot placement and body positioning, as you need to counter-balance the pulling force exerted on the hold.
Underclings
Underclings are holds that require you to pull upward, using your fingertips on the underside of the hold. These holds can be positive or negative, and they often require significant forearm and finger strength. Smearing on underclings can be challenging, as your body angles upward and requires careful foot placement to maintain balance and prevent slipping.
Intermediate Holds
Intermediate holds encompass a wide range of hold types, including crimps, edges, slopers, and more. These holds are typically smaller and require more precise footwork and body positioning. Intermediate holds can be found in various shapes and angles, providing increased difficulty and challenges for climbers.
Characteristics of Climbing Holds
Texture
Climbing holds can have a variety of textures, ranging from extremely rough to smooth. The texture of a hold affects the amount of friction between your skin and the hold, which directly impacts your ability to maintain a grip. For smearing, holds with a rough texture tend to provide more friction, making it easier to stick your foot on the hold.
Angle
The angle of a climbing hold refers to the incline or decline of the hold relative to the ground. Holds can be positive, negative, or neutral, depending on their angle. Positive holds have an inward curve or slope, making them easier to grip and smear on. Negative holds angle away from you, requiring more finger strength and technical footwork. Neutral holds have no significant incline or decline and are often used as resting points during a climb.
Shape
The shape of a climbing hold is another crucial factor in determining its suitability for smearing. Holds can come in various shapes, including rounded, sloping, incut, or with distinctive edges. Rounded holds are more difficult to smear on due to their lack of surface area, while incut holds provide more positive grip. Smoother, sloping holds require precise foot placement and technique to maintain balance and prevent slipping.
Size
The size of a climbing hold refers to its overall dimensions, and it can significantly impact the difficulty level of a climb. Smaller holds require more precision and finger strength, while larger holds provide more surface area for smearing your feet and are generally easier to grip. The optimal hold size for smearing depends on your climbing ability and comfort level.
Smearing as a Climbing Technique
Definition
Smearing is a climbing technique that involves using the friction between your climbing shoes and the rock surface to support your body weight on smooth or sloping holds. Instead of relying on positive edges or pockets to grip onto, smearing requires you to press your foot into the rock, using the surface area of the climbing shoe to maintain balance and stability.
Importance
Smearing is a crucial technique in climbing, especially when encountering slopers or holds with low friction surfaces. By mastering smearing, you can effectively use a wider range of holds and navigate more challenging routes. Smearing allows you to distribute your body weight across a larger surface area, reducing the strain on your fingers and increasing your overall climbing efficiency.
Foot Positioning
Proper foot positioning is essential for successful smearing. When smearing, you want to place the sole of your climbing shoe flush against the hold, maximizing the contact area. Avoid stepping directly on the edges of the shoe or using the toes to grip the hold, as this can reduce the effectiveness of smearing. Instead, focus on evenly distributing your body weight and maintaining a balanced position.
Optimal Climbing Hold for Smearing
Surface Texture
For optimal smearing, holds with a rough or gritty texture provide the most friction between your climbing shoes and the hold. These textured holds maximize the surface area in contact with your shoe, allowing for better adherence and stability. Look for holds that have a coarse texture or are made of a material that increases friction, such as sandstone or gritstone.
Grip Type
Holds with a positive grip, such as incut or rounded edges, are ideal for smearing. These holds provide more surface area for your foot to press against, increasing stability and reducing the risk of slipping. Avoid holds with smooth or sloping surfaces, as they offer less positive grip and make it more challenging to maintain balance while smearing.
Angle
When choosing a hold for smearing, look for holds with a neutral or positive angle. Neutral holds have no significant incline or decline, allowing for easier weight distribution and stability. Positive holds, with an inward curve or slope, provide more surface area for smearing and are generally easier to grip. Avoid holds with a negative angle, as they require more finger strength and can make smearing more difficult.
Shape
The shape of a hold plays a role in its suitability for smearing. Holds with rounded or incut edges provide more surface area for smearing, making them easier to balance on. Holds with sharper or sloping edges require more precise foot placement and technique. Look for holds with a shape that allows your foot to make maximum contact with the hold, increasing stability and grip.
Jugs for Smearing
Texture and Grip
Jugs, with their large, comfortable grip, are not typically the best holds for smearing. They often have a smooth texture, reducing friction between your climbing shoe and the hold. However, if the jug has some texture or is slightly sloping, it can still be utilized for smearing. For optimal smearing on jugs, focus on finding jugs that have an angled surface or a small amount of texture.
Suitable Angles and Shapes
When smearing on jugs, look for jugs that have a slight inward curve or slope. This shape allows you to press your foot against the hold, utilizing the surface area of your climbing shoe for better grip. Avoid jugs that are completely flat or have a pronounced curvature, as they can be more challenging to smear on.
Slopers for Smearing
Texture and Grip
Slopers, with their smooth and rounded surfaces, can be challenging to smear on due to the lack of positive grip. However, if the sloper has some texture or is angled, it can still be used for smearing. The key is to find slopers that provide enough friction between your climbing shoe and the hold to maintain a solid grip.
Suitable Angles and Shapes
For optimal smearing on slopers, look for holds that have a slight angle or are slightly incut. This shape allows your foot to make better contact with the hold and increases the surface area for smearing. Avoid slopers that are completely round or have a flat surface, as they offer less friction and can be more challenging to maintain balance on.
Edges for Smearing
Texture and Grip
Edges, with their positive grip and small surface area, are excellent for smearing. They often have a rough texture that provides ample friction between your climbing shoe and the hold. The combination of a positive grip and texture makes edges ideal for maintaining stability while smearing.
Suitable Angles and Shapes
When smearing on edges, look for holds with a slight inward curve or a positive shape. These shapes provide a larger surface area for smearing and make it easier to maintain balance. Avoid edges that are completely flat or have a negative angle, as they can be more challenging to smear on.
Pinches for Smearing
Texture and Grip
Pinches, with their small surface area and varying angles, can be difficult to smear on. They often have a smooth texture, reducing friction and grip. However, if the pinch has some texture or is slightly sloping, it can still be used for smearing. The key is to find pinches that allow for enough friction between your climbing shoe and the hold.
Suitable Angles and Shapes
For optimal smearing on pinches, look for holds that have a slight inward curve or slope. This shape allows your foot to press against the hold, increasing surface area and grip. Avoid pinches that are completely flat or have a pronounced curvature, as they can be more challenging to smear on.
Pockets for Smearing
Texture and Grip
Pockets, with their small size and often smooth texture, can be challenging to smear on. They require you to dig your fingers into the hold, leaving less surface area for your climbing shoe to grip on. However, if the pocket has some texture or is slightly sloping, it can still be utilized for smearing. Focus on finding pockets that provide enough friction between your shoe and the hold to maintain a solid grip.
Suitable Angles and Shapes
When smearing on pockets, look for holds with a slight angle or are slightly incut. This shape allows your foot to make better contact with the hold and increases the surface area for smearing. Avoid pockets that are completely flat or have a rounded surface, as they offer less friction and can be more challenging to smear on.
Intermediate Holds for Smearing
Texture and Grip
Intermediate holds encompass a wide range of textures and grips, depending on their specific design. Some intermediate holds may have a rough texture, providing ample friction for smearing, while others may be smoother, requiring greater precision and technique. It is important to assess the texture and grip of each intermediate hold individually to determine its suitability for smearing.
Suitable Angles and Shapes
Intermediate holds can come in various angles and shapes, offering different levels of challenge and complexity. Look for intermediate holds that have a shape and angle that allow for better contact with your climbing shoe, increasing stability and grip. The ideal shape and angle will depend on your climbing ability and comfort level.
In conclusion, while there may not be specific climbing holds exclusively designed for smearing, certain hold types and characteristics are more suitable for this technique. Focus on finding holds with a rough texture, positive grip, neutral or positive angle, and a shape that allows for maximum contact between your climbing shoe and the hold. Experiment with different hold types, angles, and shapes to find what works best for you and enhances your smearing skills. Remember to always prioritize safety and proper technique while climbing. Happy smearing!
