Imagine yourself hanging off the edge of a cliff, heart pounding with adrenaline. You look up at the next hold, too far to reach with a simple jump. That’s when dynos come into play. Dynos, short for dynamic moves, involve propelling yourself off one hold and reaching for another in a single, powerful leap. But can these daredevil moves be utilized in both bouldering and sport climbing? In this article, we will explore the possibilities and benefits of incorporating dynos into these exhilarating climbing disciplines.
What are Dynos?
Dynos, short for dynamic moves, are a technique used in bouldering and sport climbing that involves jumping or leaping from one hold or feature to another, bypassing intermediate holds. It is a powerful and explosive move that requires a combination of physical strength, agility, and precise coordination. Dynos often add an exciting element to climbing by introducing a sense of dynamic movement and athleticism.
Definition of Dynos
A dyno is a dynamic move in which the climber propels themselves through the air from one hold to another without utilizing all of the available intermediate holds. It is a method of bypassing difficult or impractical holds by relying on explosive power and precise timing. Dynos require the climber to generate momentum and control their body’s motion in order to successfully latch onto the desired hold.
Types of Dynos
There are various types of dynos that climbers can execute, each with its own unique challenges and techniques. Some common types include:
Straight Dynos: This is the most straightforward type of dyno, where the climber jumps directly from one hold to another in a straight line.
Sideways Dynos: In sideways dynos, the climber jumps laterally or diagonally from one hold to another, requiring additional coordination and body positioning.
Dyno Mantles: A dyno mantle involves jumping to a hold and then immediately performing a mantle move to gain stability on the higher hold.
Double Dynos: This advanced technique involves executing two dynos in quick succession, allowing the climber to cover more ground and bypass multiple challenging holds.
Dynos in Bouldering
Advantages of Using Dynos in Bouldering
Dynos offer several advantages in the realm of bouldering, enhancing the overall experience for climbers. Some of the key benefits include:
Overcoming Crux Moves: Dynos can be a useful tool when encountering difficult or seemingly impossible moves, allowing climbers to bypass these challenging sections and continue their ascent.
Efficiency and Route Optimization: By skipping unnecessary intermediate holds, dynos can help climbers find the most efficient and direct path to the top of a boulder problem, saving time and energy.
Creativity and Style: Dynos provide an opportunity for climbers to express their own unique style and creativity. They add a dynamic and eye-catching element to bouldering, enhancing the aesthetic appeal of the sport.
Techniques for Executing Dynos in Bouldering
Executing a successful dyno in bouldering requires both physical and technical skills. Here are some techniques to improve your dyno game:
Generate Power: Dynos require explosive power, so it’s important to train and develop your power-specific muscles through exercises like plyometrics and campus boarding.
Assess the Distance: Before attempting a dyno, carefully analyze the distance between holds and determine whether it is feasible to make the leap. Consider factors such as body position, trajectory, and the available momentum.
Timing and Coordination: Timing is crucial in dynos. Practice coordinating your jump with the extension of your body, ensuring that you leap at the optimal moment to maximize reach and height.
Precautions and Risks Involved in Dynos for Bouldering
While dynos can be exhilarating and rewarding, it’s essential to acknowledge the potential risks involved. Some precautions to consider when attempting dynos in bouldering are:
Landing Awareness: As you perform a dyno, be mindful of your landing spot. Ensure that the landing area is clear of obstacles and that the ground is adequately padded to minimize the risk of injury upon landing.
Gradual Progression: If you’re new to dynos, start with shorter jumps and gradually increase the difficulty and distance. This will allow you to build confidence and develop the necessary coordination and strength.
Controlled Landings: When landing from a dyno, aim to land with control and maintain your balance. Avoid landing with locked knees or in overly stretched positions, which can increase the risk of sprains or other injuries.
Dynos in Sport Climbing
Differences Between Dynos in Bouldering and Sport Climbing
While the concept of dynos remains the same in both bouldering and sport climbing, there are notable differences between the two disciplines:
Hold Density: In sport climbing, the presence of numerous intermediate holds offers climbers more options for progressing through a route. Dynos in sport climbing are often used as an alternative method to overcome challenging sections rather than as a primary technique.
Height and Fall Potential: Sport climbing typically involves routes that are higher, with climbers having the protection of rope and quickdraws. This allows for more dynamic and daring dynos without the same fear of injury from falling.
Endurance Considerations: Sport climbing often requires sustained efforts on longer routes. Dynos in sport climbing might be used strategically to conserve energy or to avoid fatiguing sections of a route.
Benefits of Incorporating Dynos in Sport Climbing
Incorporating dynos into sport climbing can offer several advantages to climbers:
Route Flexibility: Dynos provide an additional tool for climbers to overcome challenging sections or sequences that might be difficult to navigate using conventional climbing techniques. They expand the options for completing a route and add variety to climbing styles.
Mental Engagement: Dynos require climbers to maintain focus and make quick decisions, enhancing mental agility and problem-solving skills. The dynamic nature of the movement keeps climbers mentally engaged and adds an element of excitement to the climb.
Audience Appeal: Dynos often captivate the attention of spectators, making them a favorite among sport climbing competitions and events. Incorporating dynos into your climbing repertoire can help showcase your skills and attract attention.
Training Tips for Dynos in Sport Climbing
To improve dyno skills in sport climbing, consider these training tips:
Strengthening Upper Body: Dynos often require explosive upper body power. Incorporate exercises like pull-ups, fingerboarding, and campus board workouts to develop the necessary strength and power.
Technique Refinement: Refining your technique is crucial for successful dynos. Focus on body positioning, timing, and momentum generation. Practice on a variety of holds and consider seeking guidance from experienced climbers or coaches.
Mental Preparedness: Develop mental resilience to handle the technical and psychological challenges associated with dynos in sport climbing. Visualize the movement beforehand and practice mentally rehearsing the dyno to build confidence.
Training for Dynos
Physical and Mental Preparation
Training for dynos requires a holistic approach, addressing both physical and mental aspects of climbing. Some considerations for training include:
Strength and Power Training: To excel at dynos, focus on developing explosive power in your legs and upper body. Incorporate exercises like power squats, plyometrics, and campus board training to enhance your power output.
Flexibility and Range of Motion: Maintaining good flexibility is essential for executing effective dynos. Incorporate stretching exercises like yoga or specific flexibility drills to improve your range of motion.
Mental Training: Dynos can be mentally challenging due to the precision and commitment required. Engage in mental training exercises such as visualization, positive self-talk, and learning to manage fear and anxiety to improve your mental preparedness.
Exercises and Drills for Dyno Training
To improve your dyno skills, incorporate the following exercises and drills into your training routine:
Bouldering Dyno Drills: Set up dyno-specific routes or problems on a suitable bouldering wall. Practice dynos of varying distances and angles, focusing on developing power, timing, and coordination.
Campusing: Utilize a campus board to improve upper body strength and explosive power. Practice dyno-like movements by skipping rungs or performing double dyno movements on the board.
Jumping and Plyometrics: Incorporate jumping exercises and plyometric drills, such as box jumps and depth jumps, to enhance leg power and explosiveness.
Equipment for Dynos
Choosing the Right Climbing Shoes
When performing dynos, choosing the right climbing shoes can significantly influence your performance and safety. Consider the following factors when selecting climbing shoes for dynoing:
Fit and Comfort: Choose climbing shoes that fit snugly but are not overly tight or uncomfortable. A good fit helps maintain precision and control during dynos.
Rubber Grip: Look for climbing shoes with sticky rubber soles that provide excellent grip on various types of holds. This will enhance your ability to stick to holds during dynos.
Toe Shape: Dynoing often requires precise foot placement. Shoes with a pointed toe shape can offer better accuracy when aiming for small holds.
Safety Equipment for Dynos
While dynos can be thrilling, safety should always be a priority. Consider the following safety equipment when attempting dynos:
Crash Pads: In bouldering, placing crash pads beneath your landing zone can help absorb the impact and minimize the risk of injury in case of a fall.
Spotter: When attempting dynos in bouldering, having a spotter can provide an added layer of safety. A spotter can guide your landing, offer support, and help prevent serious injuries.
Famous Dynos
Iconic Dynos in Bouldering
Throughout the history of climbing, several dynos have gained legendary status. Here are a few iconic dynos in bouldering:
“The Mandala” (V12): Located in Bishop, California, “The Mandala” involves a powerful dyno move from a low undercling to a high sloping rail. This dyno has become a testpiece for aspiring climbers.
“The Swallow” (V14): Considered one of the hardest dynos in the world, “The Swallow” requires climbers to jump from a left-facing side pull to a right-facing crimp, showcasing the epitome of precision and power.
Notable Dynos in Sport Climbing
While dynos are less common in sport climbing, there have been some notable instances where dynos played a pivotal role in achieving success:
“Hubble” (9a): The iconic dyno move on “Hubble,” located in the United Kingdom, is widely regarded as one of the most famous dynos in sport climbing history. The dyno move on this route is the crux, requiring an explosive leap to a distant gaston hold.
“Biographie” (9a+): On “Biographie” in France, a prominent dyno move involves a powerful jump between pockets. This route has become a benchmark for dyno sequences in sport climbing.
Competitions and Events
Dynos in Bouldering Competitions
Dynos are often included in bouldering competitions, adding excitement and athleticism to the events. Some notable bouldering competitions known for their dyno challenges include the IFSC Bouldering World Cup and the American Bouldering Series.
Dynos in Sport Climbing Competitions
While dynos are less common in sport climbing competitions, they occasionally make appearances as part of the route-setting creativity. The IFSC Climbing World Championships and the Red Bull Creepers are among the events where dynos have been incorporated.
High-profile Dyno Events
In addition to regular competitions, there are high-profile dyno-specific events that celebrate this unique climbing technique. The “Psicobloc” in Utah, USA, is a popular deep-water soloing competition featuring large dyno moves over a deep pool of water. Another notable dyno event is the “Dynos Around the World” series, where climbers showcase their mastery of dynos across different locations worldwide.
Dynos and Injury Prevention
Common Injuries Related to Dynos
While dynos can be thrilling, there are certain risks associated with the technique that climbers should be aware of. Some common injuries related to dynos include:
Ankle Sprains: The explosive nature of dynos increases the risk of landing incorrectly and rolling or spraining an ankle.
Finger Injuries: The sudden impact and high forces involved in catching a dyno can strain or injure the fingers, leading to injuries such as pulley strains or tendonitis.
Back and Shoulder Strains: The dynamic nature of dynos can put stress on the back and shoulders, especially if not properly warmed up or if executed with poor technique.
Preventing Injuries while Executing Dynos
To minimize the risk of injuries while executing dynos, consider the following prevention strategies:
Warm-up: Prioritize a thorough warm-up routine before attempting dynos to prepare your body for the explosive movements and reduce the risk of muscle strains or tears.
Proper Technique: Focus on maintaining good technique, including body alignment, controlled landings, and utilizing proper hand and foot placements. Avoid compromising form in pursuit of greater distance or height.
Gradual Progression: Build up your dyno skills gradually. Start with easier dynos and progressively increase the difficulty. This allows your body to adapt to the demands of dynos and reduces the risk of overuse injuries.
Criticism and Controversies
Arguments Against the Use of Dynos
While dynos are an exciting and athletic aspect of climbing, there are some arguments against their use in certain contexts. Some common arguments against the use of dynos include:
Lack of Skill Variety: Critics argue that dynos can overshadow other technical aspects of climbing. Overemphasis on dynos may neglect the development of other important climbing skills, such as precise footwork or efficient route reading.
Safety Concerns: Certain climbing establishments or outdoor areas may restrict or discourage the use of dynos due to safety concerns. Uncontrolled falls from dynos can potentially lead to injuries, both for the climber attempting the dyno and for others in the vicinity.
Controversial Moments in Dynos History
Throughout climbing history, there have been controversial moments involving dynos. Some notable instances include:
“Johnny Dawes’s Dyno”: In the 1980s, British climber Johnny Dawes made headlines by executing a groundbreaking dyno move on an indoor climbing wall. This move sparked excitement and debate within the climbing community, with discussions about the ethics and style of using dynos.
“Dynos for Grades”: The use of dynos to bypass challenging sections of routes has sparked discussions about the grading of climbs. Some argue that dyno moves can artificially downgrade the difficulty of a route if used as a shortcut.
Conclusion
Dynos add an exhilarating and dynamic element to both bouldering and sport climbing. They require a combination of physical strength, technical skill, and mental agility. By incorporating dynos into climbing training and competitions, climbers can push their limits, showcase their individual style, and add creativity to routes. However, it’s important to approach dynos with caution, considering the potential risks and preparing both physically and mentally. The future of dynos in climbing holds exciting possibilities, with ongoing innovations and the emergence of new dynos in both bouldering and sport climbing. As the climbing community continues to evolve, the art of dynoing will undoubtedly remain a captivating aspect of the sport.
