Are you an avid climber looking to step up your game and conquer more challenging routes? If so, then you’ve probably come across a wide array of climbing equipment options, including hexes. But with so many choices available, it can be a daunting task to figure out which climbing hexes are best suited for your needs. Fear not! In this article, we’ll guide you through the process of selecting the perfect climbing hexes, ensuring that you make an informed decision and elevate your climbing experience to new heights. Choosing the right climbing hexes can make a big difference in your climbing experience. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, having the right equipment is essential for safety and success on the rock. Hexes are versatile pieces of climbing gear that can be used in a variety of crack systems and can provide reliable protection. In this article, we will explore different types of climbing hexes and discuss key considerations for choosing the right ones for your climbing style and needs.
Types of Climbing Hexes
Passive Hexes
Passive hexes, also known as chocks, are the most basic type of climbing hexes. They consist of a solid, hexagonal piece of metal with multiple tapered sides. Passive hexes do not have any moving parts, which means they rely solely on their shape and placement in the crack for stability. These hexes are lightweight, easy to use, and affordable, making them a popular choice among climbers.
Active Hexes
Active hexes, also known as spring-loaded hexes or camming hexes, are a more advanced type of climbing hexes. They feature a mechanism that allows the hex to expand and contract, adapting to different crack sizes. Active hexes are designed to provide a secure placement in a wider range of crack sizes, making them versatile and reliable. They are slightly heavier and more expensive than passive hexes, but they offer greater ease of use and increased protection in certain situations.
Hybrid Hexes
Hybrid hexes combine the features of both passive and active hexes, offering a versatile and adaptable solution for climbers. They usually have one or two active sides and the rest are passive. This combination allows climbers to place the hexes in a variety of crack sizes and ensures a secure placement. Hybrid hexes are a great option for climbers who want the benefits of both passive and active hexes in a single piece of gear.
Considerations for Choosing Climbing Hexes
When choosing climbing hexes, there are several factors you should consider to ensure you pick the right ones for your climbing style, the rock type and condition, placement options, weight and size, durability and strength, and your budget. Let’s explore each consideration in detail.
Climbing Style
The type of climbing you do will heavily influence the type of hexes you choose. There are three main climbing styles to consider: trad climbing, sport climbing, and aid climbing.
Trad Climbing
Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of climbing where climbers place their own protection as they ascend a route. Trad climbers typically rely on passive protection, like hexes, to protect themselves in cracks and other features of the rock. Therefore, passive hexes are a popular choice for trad climbers due to their simplicity and lightweight nature.
Sport Climbing
Sport climbing is a style of climbing where climbers rely on pre-placed bolts for protection. Since sport climbers don’t need to carry and place their own protection, hexes are not commonly used in sport climbing.
Aid Climbing
Aid climbing is a style of climbing where climbers use specialized gear, including hexes, to ascend the rock using artificial means of protection. In aid climbing, both passive and active hexes can be useful, depending on the crack systems and the specific requirements of the route.
Considering your preferred climbing style is crucial in determining the type of hexes that will best suit your needs.
Rock Type and Condition
The type of rock you will be climbing on and its condition can significantly impact the performance of your hexes. Different rock types require different types of protection, so it’s important to consider the characteristics of the rock you will be climbing on.
Granite
Granite is a common rock type that offers excellent friction and is highly resistant to weathering. It often features cracks that are well-suited for hex placements. Both passive and active hexes can be effective on granite, but passive hexes are often the preferred choice due to their simplicity and ease of placement.
Limestone
Limestone is a sedimentary rock known for its smooth and compact nature. It tends to have fewer cracks and more pockets and features where cams and other specialized protection can be placed. Hexes, especially active hexes, may not be as effective on limestone compared to other rock types.
Sandstone
Sandstone is a softer rock that can have a variety of crack systems. Passive and active hexes can be effective on sandstone, but it’s important to assess the quality and condition of the rock before relying solely on hexes for protection.
Mixed Routes
In some climbing areas, you may encounter a mix of different rock types. In these cases, having a variety of hexes, both passive and active, can provide versatility in your gear placement options.
Cracked Rock
Pay attention to the condition of the cracks in the rock you will be climbing on. Cracks that are consistent and uniform in width are ideal for hex placements, while flaring cracks or irregularities may require more specialized protection.
Considering the rock type and its condition will help you choose hexes that are best suited for the specific challenges posed by the rock you will be climbing on.
Placement Options
Hexes can be placed in a variety of crack systems, and understanding the different placement options will help you utilize them effectively.
Parallel Cracks
Parallel cracks run parallel to each other and are often the most straightforward crack systems for hex placements. Both passive and active hexes can fit well in parallel cracks, but passive hexes are generally more effective due to their simplicity.
Flaring Cracks
Flaring cracks are cracks that widen as they go deeper into the rock. These cracks can be more challenging to protect with hexes, as the hexes may not seat properly or may have a tendency to walk out. Active hexes can be particularly useful in flaring cracks due to their ability to adapt to changing crack sizes.
Horizontal Cracks
Horizontal cracks run perpendicular to the direction of climbing. Placing hexes in horizontal cracks can be more challenging, but both passive and active hexes can work well in this placement. It’s important to consider the direction of pull and utilize proper extension techniques to ensure secure placements.
Pods and Constrictions
Pods and constrictions are irregularities in the crack system where the crack narrows or widens abruptly. These features can create unique opportunities for hex placements, and the versatility of hybrid hexes can be particularly advantageous in these situations.
Understanding the different crack systems and their challenges will allow you to choose hexes that can be effectively placed in a variety of situations.
Weight and Size
The weight and size of your climbing hexes can impact your climbing experience, especially if you’re carrying a large rack of hexes.
Lightweight Hexes
Lightweight hexes are ideal if you’re planning longer climbs or if you prefer to have a wide range of sizes in your rack. Passive hexes are generally lighter than active or hybrid hexes, making them a popular choice for climbers who prioritize weight savings.
Midweight Hexes
Midweight hexes offer a balance between weight and durability. They are often more durable than lightweight hexes and can withstand more abuse. They are a good choice for climbers who value durability without compromising too much on weight.
Heavyweight Hexes
Heavyweight hexes are designed to be sturdy and provide increased security. They are the most durable option and are well-suited for climbers who prioritize strength and reliability over weight savings.
Hex Sizes
Consider the range of sizes available in the hex set. Having a variety of sizes allows you to adapt to different crack sizes and provides more placement options. Choose a set of hexes with sizes that are appropriate for the crack systems you’ll encounter in your climbing adventures.
Considering the weight and size of your hexes will help you find the right balance between performance and comfort during your climbs.
Durability and Strength
Durability and strength are important factors to consider when choosing climbing hexes. Hexes need to be able to withstand the rigors of climbing and provide reliable protection.
Passive hexes are generally more durable as they have fewer moving parts, making them less prone to mechanical failure. However, the trade-off is that they may not adapt as well to different crack sizes.
Active and hybrid hexes, although slightly less durable than passive hexes, are designed to withstand repeated falls and provide reliable protection in a wider range of crack sizes.
Consider your climbing objectives and the expected wear and tear on your gear when evaluating the durability and strength of different hex options.
Price
As with any climbing gear, price is an important consideration. Hexes can vary in price depending on the brand, materials used, and features offered.
Budget-Friendly Options
If you’re just starting out or on a tight budget, there are affordable options available. Passive hexes tend to be more budget-friendly compared to active or hybrid hexes. Consider investing in a reliable set of passive hexes that fit within your budget.
Mid-Range Options
Mid-range hexes offer a balance between affordability and performance. They usually offer a combination of passive and active features, making them versatile and adaptable to different climbing situations.
High-End Options
If you have the budget for it, high-end hexes can offer the latest advancements in design and technology. They often feature lightweight materials, innovative mechanisms, and enhanced durability. High-end hexes are a great choice for climbers who demand the best performance and are willing to invest in their gear.
Consider your budget and prioritize the features and performance characteristics that are most important to you when selecting climbing hexes.
In conclusion, choosing the right climbing hexes requires careful consideration of your climbing style, the rock type and condition, placement options, weight and size, durability and strength, and your budget. By understanding these factors and evaluating the features of different types of hexes, you can make an informed decision that will enhance your climbing experience and keep you safe on the rock. So, whether you’re starting out or a seasoned climber, take the time to research and choose the right climbing hexes for your needs, and enjoy your adventures on the vertical world!
