If you’re an avid rock climber or just starting out, understanding the various types of holds used for edging is essential to improving your skills. From crimps and pockets to slopers and side-pulls, each hold presents its own challenges and techniques. In this article, we’ll explore the different types of holds used for edging and provide valuable tips to help you navigate them with confidence. So, lace up your climbing shoes and get ready to conquer those edges!
Jugs
Jugs are large, comfortable holds that are often the first type of hold beginners encounter when starting their climbing journey. These holds are characterized by their positive and rounded shape, which allows climbers to easily grasp them with their whole hand. Jugs are typically found on routes or boulder problems that are meant to be less challenging or where climbers need a momentary break to shake out their arms. They are perfect for gaining confidence, building strength, and providing a stable grip for climbers to rest on.
Characteristics of Jugs
- Rounded and positive shape
- Large size, allowing for a full-hand grip
- Often used as rest holds
- Provide good weight distribution on the hand
Jugs are a great introduction to climbing holds as they are straightforward to use and provide a comfortable grip. When encountering jugs on a climbing route, climbers can focus on their technique and footwork without worrying too much about holding on tightly.
Crimps
In contrast to jugs, crimps are small, narrow holds that require a particular finger position to maintain a grip. Crimps are notorious for demanding finger strength and precise technique. These holds typically have a positive or incut edge, which means the edge of the hold is angled towards the climber, allowing for more surface area to be used for grip.
Characteristics of Crimps
- Small and narrow holds
- Require strong finger strength
- Positive or incut edge for better grip
- Precision and technique are crucial
Crimps are commonly found on more challenging climbing routes or boulder problems. Climbers rely on their finger strength and body tension to maintain their grip. Proper training and conditioning of the fingers are essential to successfully navigate crimp holds. Developing finger strength and learning proper technique is a gradual process, but it can greatly enhance a climber’s ability to tackle more difficult climbs.
Slopers
Slopers are among the most challenging types of holds due to their lack of positive edges or specific gripping points. These holds, as the name suggests, have a smooth and rounded surface, making it difficult to establish a secure grip. Climbers must rely on friction and body tension to maintain contact with the sloper hold.
Characteristics of Slopers
- Smooth and rounded surface
- Require body tension and balance
- Limited positive edges or gripping points
- Challenging to grip securely
Slopers often test a climber’s body positioning, balance, and overall body tension. Climbers must use a combination of strength, technique, and strategy to maintain contact and control on these holds. Building up finger, hand, and core strength can greatly improve a climber’s ability to navigate slopers effectively.
Pinches
Pinches are holds that require squeezing or pinching them between the thumb and fingers. These holds come in various sizes, ranging from small pinches that barely fit one finger pad to larger pinches that can accommodate the whole hand. Pinches are especially common on climbing routes that simulate the movement of grasping a real object.
Characteristics of Pinches
- Require squeezing or pinching between thumb and fingers
- Come in various sizes
- Replicate a gripping motion
When encountering pinch holds, climbers need to maintain a firm grip and balance while exerting strength through their fingers. Proper hand and finger positioning are crucial to prevent the hold from slipping out of your grasp. Building finger and forearm strength through specific exercises can enhance your pinch grip and improve your performance on routes that utilize pinch holds.
Sidepulls
Sidepulls are holds that allow climbers to pull in a sideways or diagonal direction. These holds often have a positive or incut edge that the climber can use to generate force and maintain contact. Sidepulls can present various angles and orientations, providing different challenges on each route or problem.
Characteristics of Sidepulls
- Allow pulling in a sideways or diagonal direction
- Often have positive or incut edges
- Offer different angles and orientations
When using sidepull holds, climbers need to engage their core and maintain body tension to prevent swinging away from the wall. Proper footwork and body positioning are essential to maximize the effectiveness of sidepull holds. Training specific muscles, such as the shoulders and core, can greatly improve a climber’s ability to execute sidepull moves efficiently.
Underclings
Underclings are holds where the hand is positioned underneath the hold, allowing the climber to pull rather than push. These holds can range from positive edges to sloping surfaces, presenting a variety of challenges. Underclings often require the climber to engage their entire body, using both upper and lower body strength to maintain contact with the hold.
Characteristics of Underclings
- Hand positioned underneath the hold
- Require pulling rather than pushing
- Can vary from positive to sloping surfaces
Effective use of undercling holds relies on using body tension and weight distribution to counteract the force pulling down on the hold. Climbers must engage their core, maintain proper body alignment, and generate upward force to defy gravity. Developing upper body and core strength can greatly improve a climber’s ability to utilize undercling holds.
Gaston
Gaston holds, also known as gastons, are holds where the hand is turned away from the body, forcing the climber to push against the hold. Gastons often require a combinatio…
