Are you an adventurous soul yearning to conquer the heights of nature? If so, then trad climbing might be just the adrenaline-fueled activity you’re seeking. But before you embark on your climbing journey, it’s essential to understand the various types of gear employed in this exhilarating sport. Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, involves climbers carrying and placing their own protective equipment as they ascend. This gear acts as their lifeline, providing the necessary security in the face of challenges. From nuts and cams to slings and carabiners, each piece of equipment serves a unique purpose, enabling climbers to scale towering cliffs with confidence and grace. So, let’s unravel the secrets behind the gear that fuels the daring pursuits of trad climbers.
Protection Gear
Trad climbing requires a variety of gear for protection, ranging from camming devices and nuts to slings and quickdraws. These protective devices serve the crucial purpose of preventing a climber from falling in the event of a slip or a fall. Let’s explore each type of protection gear in detail.
Camming Devices
Camming devices, also known as cams, are mechanical devices used to secure a climber’s rope in cracks and other openings on the rock face. They consist of a series of spring-loaded lobes that expand when placed into a crack, creating friction and thus preventing the device from dislodging. Cams come in various sizes, allowing climbers to find the best fit for different cracks.
Nuts
Nuts, or wired nuts, are small metal pieces that are wedged into constrictions or small cracks in the rock. Nuts rely on their shape and friction to hold the rope in place. They come in different sizes and shapes, such as tapered or curved, to fit various crack types. Nuts are lightweight and versatile, making them a popular choice among trad climbers.
Hexes
Hexes, also known as hexcentrics or hexagonal nuts, are metal pieces with a hexagonal cross-section. Similar to nuts, they are placed in cracks by wedging them securely. Hexes offer more surface area contact with the rock, providing enhanced stability and security. Their versatility allows them to fit various sizes of cracks.
Passive Protection
Passive protection refers to gear that doesn’t employ mechanical mechanisms, relying solely on its shape or design to stay secure in cracks. This includes nuts and hexes, as mentioned earlier. Passive protection is known for its simplicity, lightweight nature, and reliability.
Slings
Slings are webbing or cordage materials that are used to connect various types of climbing gear, like cams or nuts, to the rope or harness. They offer flexibility and allow for easy extension or reduction of gear placements. Slings come in different lengths and materials, such as nylon and dyneema, providing options for various climbing scenarios.
Quickdraws
Quickdraws are devices used to quickly connect a climbing rope to a bolt or piece of protection. They consist of two carabiners joined by a sewn loop of webbing. Quickdraws enable climbers to efficiently clip into protection, reducing rope drag and maintaining a safe distance from potential falls. They are an essential tool in trad climbing.
Ropes
Ropes play a critical role in trad climbing, providing a lifeline for climbers in case of falls or to protect them during ascents. There are two main types of ropes used in trad climbing: dynamic ropes and static ropes.
Dynamic Ropes
Dynamic ropes are designed to stretch under load, absorbing the impact of a fall. This elasticity helps reduce the forces exerted on the climber and the gear, minimizing the risk of injury or gear failure. Dynamic ropes are essential for protecting both the climber and the gear from excessive shocks.
Static Ropes
Static ropes, as the name suggests, do not stretch under load like dynamic ropes. They provide minimal give, making them ideal for scenarios where stretch is not desirable, such as aiding or hauling gear. Static ropes are commonly used in situations where the climber’s weight needs to be distributed more evenly, or where the climb involves fixed lines and minimal falls.
Accessory Cords
Accessory cords are smaller diameter ropes or cords used for various purposes in trad climbing. They are typically lightweight and have a range of uses, including prusik loops, anchor building, and creating friction hitches for rappelling. Accessory cords provide versatility and aid in specific technical aspects of trad climbing.
Climbing Harness
A climbing harness is essential in trad climbing, providing a secure and comfortable attachment point between the climber and the rope. There are different types of climbing harnesses available, each serving specific purposes.
Sit Harness
Sit harnesses are the most commonly used type of climbing harness. They consist of a waistbelt and leg loops that distribute the climber’s weight evenly. Sit harnesses are ideal for most trad climbing scenarios, offering comfort, flexibility, and ease of use.
Chest Harness
While not as commonly used as sit harnesses in trad climbing, chest harnesses serve specific purposes, such as aiding in ascending ropes or providing additional support in rescue situations. A chest harness is worn across the chest and attaches to the sit harness to create a full-body system.
Full Body Harness
Full body harnesses provide the highest level of security and support. They are often used in alpine or mountaineering adventures, where the risk of falling upside down or slipping out of a harness is higher. Full body harnesses cover the chest, waist, and legs, distributing weight more evenly and providing additional padding.
Climbing Shoes
Choosing the right climbing shoes is crucial in trad climbing, as they provide the necessary grip and sensitivity to navigate challenging and varying rock surfaces. There are different types of climbing shoes to consider.
Traditional Climbing Shoes
Traditional climbing shoes are versatile and suitable for a wide range of climbing styles. They typically have a balanced design, offering moderate stiffness and a neutral shape that accommodates various foot sizes. Traditional climbing shoes provide all-day comfort and can handle different types of rock and climbing techniques.
Aggressive Climbing Shoes
Aggressive climbing shoes are designed for advanced climbers tackling steeper and more challenging trad climbs. These shoes have a downturned shape, allowing for better precision and increased power when edging or smearing. Aggressive climbing shoes excel in demanding terrains, providing an enhanced climbing experience for experienced trad climbers.
Approach Shoes
Approach shoes are not specific to trad climbing but are often used to access climbing areas or to perform easy approaches to the base of a climb. These shoes provide a blend of hiking and climbing functionalities, with a more durable construction and a sticky rubber sole for better traction on uneven terrain.
Carabiners
Carabiners are essential components in trad climbing, used for connecting various pieces of gear and the rope. There are different types of carabiners to consider based on their locking mechanism.
Locking Carabiners
Locking carabiners feature a gate that can be manually locked to prevent accidental opening. They provide an extra level of security, ensuring gear remains securely attached to the rope or harness. Locking carabiners are commonly used in critical points or situations where the risk of gear movement is higher, such as anchors or belay devices.
Non-locking Carabiners
Non-locking carabiners, also known as snap or wiregate carabiners, have a gate that relies on spring tension to stay closed. They are lightweight and easy to manipulate, making them ideal for quickdraws or other non-critical attachments where frequent clipping and unclipping is required. Non-locking carabiners are commonly used to extend protection placements and reduce rope drag.
Quickdraws
Quickdraws, as mentioned earlier in the protection gear section, are specifically designed carabiners connected by a sewn loop of webbing. They allow for efficient and quick clipping of the rope to bolts or gear placements. Quickdraws are essential for trad climbing as they reduce rope drag, providing a smoother and safer climbing experience.
Helmet
Wearing a helmet is highly recommended in trad climbing to protect against potential falling debris or accidental hits on the head. There are different types of climbing helmets available, each with unique features and construction methods.
Hard Shell Helmets
Hard shell helmets are constructed with a durable outer plastic shell combined with an inner foam padding to absorb impacts. They provide excellent protection against falling rocks or sharp objects and are suitable for trad climbing scenarios where the risk of rockfall is higher.
Foam Helmets
Foam helmets, also known as soft shell helmets, utilize a softer foam material throughout the entire construction. They offer lightweight and comfortable protection, making them popular for longer climbs or alpine adventures. Foam helmets provide good impact absorption and are designed to be worn for extended periods without causing discomfort.
Slings
As mentioned earlier, slings are versatile pieces of gear used to connect climbing equipment to the rope or harness. Let’s explore the two main types of slings commonly used in trad climbing.
Nylon Slings
Nylon slings are the most common type of slings used in climbing. They are made of durable and lightweight nylon webbing, providing flexibility and strength. Nylon slings come in various lengths to accommodate different climbing scenarios, from extending gear placements to setting up anchors or creating equalized systems.
Dyneema Slings
Dyneema slings, also known as Spectra or Dynex slings, are made from a high-strength polyethylene material. They are incredibly lightweight yet incredibly strong, offering a higher strength-to-weight ratio compared to nylon slings. Dyneema slings are popular for alpine climbing or situations where reducing weight is crucial. Their low stretch properties also make them ideal for creating static equalized systems.
Ascenders and Descenders
Ascenders and descenders are essential tools used in trad climbing to aid in ascending ropes or to control descents. Let’s explore each type in detail.
Ascenders
Ascenders are devices used to climb a rope through a pulley-like mechanism. They are commonly used for self-rescue, ascending ropes during big wall climbing, or for ascending fixed lines. Ascenders feature toothed camming systems that grip the rope when weight is applied, allowing climbers to move up the rope more easily.
Descenders
Descenders, also known as rappel devices or belay devices, are used to control the descent of a climber safely. They create friction on the rope, enabling a controlled and gradual descent. Descenders feature various designs, such as tube-style or figure-eight, offering different levels of control and ease of use. They are essential in trad climbing when rappelling down after completing a climb or during self-rescue situations.
Cams
Cams are versatile pieces of gear used for protection in trad climbing. They come in different designs and sizes, offering varying capabilities and applications.
Single Stem Cams
Single stem cams, as the name suggests, have a single stem connecting the cam lobes. This design provides simplicity and easy handling. Single stem cams are suitable for a wide range of crack sizes and are popular among trad climbers for their reliability and ease of placement.
Double Stem Cams
Double stem cams feature two stems or trigger wires connecting the cam lobes. This design offers increased stability and versatility, making them able to fit irregular or offset cracks. Double stem cams provide more options for placements in challenging trad climbing scenarios.
Micro Cams
Micro cams, also known as offset cams or specialty cams, are specifically designed for protecting small cracks or irregularities in the rock face. They offer precise placements in tiny or shallow cracks, expanding the range of protection options for trad climbers. Micro cams provide added security in challenging sections where standard-sized cams may not fit.
Hexes
Hexes, as mentioned earlier in the protection gear section, are versatile pieces of climbing gear used to secure ropes in cracks. They come in two main types.
Standard Hexes
Standard hexes have a uniform hexagonal shape, providing multiple contact points with the rock for enhanced stability. They are suitable for a wide range of crack sizes and are easy to place and remove. Standard hexes are a staple in trad climbing, offering reliable and versatile protection.
Offset Hexes
Offset hexes have lobes of varying sizes, creating a tapered or offset shape. This design allows offset hexes to fit irregular or flaring cracks that may not accommodate standard hexes. Offset hexes offer additional options in challenging terrain, increasing the range of protection for trad climbers.
In trad climbing, having the right gear is essential for ensuring safety, efficiency, and success on the rock. From protection devices like cams and nuts to ropes, harnesses, shoes, carabiners, helmets, slings, ascenders, descenders, and specialty equipment like hexes, trad climbers have a wide array of gear options to choose from. It’s important to select gear that fits your climbing style and offers the necessary level of protection for the challenges you may encounter. Remember to always prioritize safety, and happy climbing!
